| | | | | Owners & Enthusiasts | | | | | | Caring For "DAY ONE" Cockatiel Babies | | |
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Copyright © 1998 by NCS Member Jim Gintz
All Rights Reserved
At times it becomes necessary to care for chicks from day one. The most common reason for this is poor parenting instincts in the breeding pair. The parents are often young and inexperienced. Most breeders recommend waiting until the female is 16-18 months old and the male at least 12 months old before breeding them. Parental instincts seem to kick in more readily with maturity. Another reason for the need to care for day one babies is abandoned eggs. This may be a result of poor instincts or because the parents were disturbed to the point of abandoning the nest box.
Living in Southern California allows me the luxury of having my birds outside year round. Because I live near the coast, the temperatures stay fairly consistent all year. This allows me to breed throughout the year. Unfortunately the last few winters have had some really bad storms that resulted in numerous abandoned eggs. Breeding pairs don't seem to care for 60 m.p.h. winds whipping through the aviary! Faced with the loss of whole clutches of yellowface and pastelface chicks, I resorted to incubating and handfeeding from day one. After several years of trying various techniques I have developed a system that works for me. During the winter of 97-98 I raised 21 chicks from day one with zero mortality using the technique I will describe in the following paragraphs.
INCUBATION
Proper incubation techniques will increase the strength and viability of the chicks. I use a Lyons Turn-X incubator with an automatic turning device. The incubator is kept in a dim and quiet area away from foot traffic. The area should be free from drafts and have relatively constant temperature. A foam pad is placed under the incubator to reduce vibrations from the fan motor and the turning device. Although the incubator comes with both dry and wet bulb thermometers, I place a small battery operated thermometer/hygrometer in the incubator. The LCD read out is easier to read than a mercury thermometer. I use distilled water in the incubator. To help prevent bacteria growth I use a bacteriostatic product that is made for room humidifiers and vaporizers. I add 4-5 drops to the incubator water bottle. Cleanliness is vital when handling eggs and newly hatched chicks so make sure you wash your hands and disinfect all supplies. The incubator is kept at 99 F with a humidity of 50% until the eggs are due to hatch. All eggs are marked with the date as they are laid in the nestbox so that I can track expected hatch dates. I mark all eggs with a code for the parents when they are removed from the nestbox. This prevents confusion over "who is who" when there is more than one clutch in the incubator. I gradually warm any cooled eggs in a brooder. Eggs that have cooled may still be viable so don't throw them away!
When the eggs are 3 days from hatching they are placed in a small pre-warmed cup that is lined with paper towels. The chick needs to position itself for hatching so the egg must remain still. The cup is placed on top of the turning rack inside the incubator. In this way, the eggs still developing will continue to be turned but the eggs near hatching are allowed to rest. I keep a clipboard next to the incubator to track all eggs. Once the egg(s) are around 3 days from hatching I set up the brooder so that it will be ready when needed. I use a brooder that has a ceramic infrared bulb as the heat source. This particular type of brooder is made by AviTech and has a clear acrylic door that allows observation of the new chicks without opening the brooder. I use fresh pine shavings for a base bedding. The pine shavings hold heat better than paper towels or fabric and since the chicks will be in containers there is no risk of ingestion. I use 2 thermometers in the brooder. The first is the same type used in the incubator. It has a temperature and humidity reading. I also use a thermometer that is designed to take outside temperature readings. It has a probe attached that has a long wire which allows the probe to be several feet from the readout. I place the probe in the brooder and keep the readout set on top of the brooder. In this way I can check the temperature reading when I walk by the brooder I place a cup with a paper towel inside in the back of the brooder. I moisten the paper towel with distilled water until it is very wet but the water does not fill the cup. Humidity is very important to the newly hatched chicks survival and the paper towel helps the water to evaporate into the brooder. It is important to give the brooder a couple of days to stabilize before placing the newly hatched chicks in it. Both temperature and humidity reading are checked every few hours and adjusted as needed. I begin with a temperature reading of 98 degrees F. and a humidity ready of 60-70%.
HATCHING
The majority of the time hatching goes without problems. Proper care of the egg is the best way to ensure easy hatching. An egg that is kept in the proper temperature and humidity will result in a stronger chick. Allowing the egg to rest for several days prior to hatching gives the chick a chance to position itself for hatching without wasting energy.
Monitor the eggs closely once they pip. Most chicks should be out of the shell within 24 hours of pipping. Occasionally chicks will need assistance hatching. I will not go into assisted hatching here since it is a very delicate procedure that would require an entire article of it's own. I will mention that when a chick has a long or difficult hatch it may be necessary to give it a small amount of pedialyte to prevent dehydration and to provide energy.
Once the chick is hatched I make sure that it has totally separated from the egg and membrane. Occasionally there is a tiny bit of bleeding from the umbilical site. I use a cotton swab with Betadine to cleanse the area to help prevent infection. If the site is still bleeding you must act quickly since even a tiny amount of blood loss can be fatal. Apply a clotting product such as Quick-Stop to the site and monitor closely. Do not keep the chick out of the incubator for too long. They chill very quickly and this will stress and weaken them. The use of a heating bulb over the work area will help prevent the chicks from chilling. I use a type of heating bulb that is manufactured for reptile habitats. There are clip on style lights that are very good for this purpose.
The chicks are kept in the incubator until their down dries. This can take 4-6 hours. Once the down is dried the chick is transferred to a clean cup that has been warming in the brooder for several hours. The cup is lined with paper towel that has been crumpled to provide some traction for the tiny chick. A smooth surface can result in splayed leg problems. The brooder should be at 98 degrees F and the humidity at 60-70%. If I am raising a single chick I try to keep an infertile egg in the incubator with the fertile egg. When the chick hatches the infertile egg will help support the chick and help maintain body heat. Do not use any egg that may be contaminated or have decaying material inside. I also use a small stuffed toy with some of my chicks. They snuggle up to this artificial "mama" immediately. Many pet stores sell small toys that are made of acrylic lambs wool type material. These can be easily cleaned in the washer.
HANDFEEDING
Once the chick is transferred into the brooder it is time to start feeding. The first 2 feedings are Pedialyte with a small amount of a probiotic mixed in. Probiotics are powdered mixes of lactobacillus and other "good bacteria" that are avian specific. I use Lakes' LACTO-plus but there are several other products on the market. Use Pedialyte that is unflavored.
Handfeeding formula will be added after the first two feedings. Use the formula you are most comfortable with. I personally use Kaytee's formula since that is what I use to feed the older chicks that I pull for hand raising.
Gather your supplies for feeding. You will need a gram scale, a small glass cup or container, syringe, thermometer, wash cloth, shallow bowl, and some cotton swabs. You should check your supplies several days before they are needed to prevent problems at the last minute.
There are several types of scales on the market. When dealing with day one babies you will need a scale that is fairly sensitive with a LCD readout. Most kitchen supply stores will have several choices that are not very expensive. I strongly recommend that you have the scale. Monitoring the chicks weight is a critical part of succeeding!
I use a 1cc or tuberculin syringe to feed the new chick. There are several companies that sell these syringes. It is wise to have several on hand at all times if you are going to breed- you never know when they will be needed. There are attachments that can be used to make the tip of the syringe even smaller. Another option is to use a jeweler's file to file down the tip of the syringe. If you use the file method remember to check the tip for sharp edges that can damage the chicks mouth.
You will need a thermometer for checking the temperature of the formula. I use a battery operated thermometer with a LCD readout, they can be found at most kitchen supply stores. Do yourself a favor and have a back up thermometer and spare batteries on hand.
A clean wash cloth or hand towel will help provide a suitable work surface. I use plain white cloths that can stand up to hot water in the laundry. Paper towels tend to slip and slide allover the counter top.
A shallow bowl will be needed to hold warm water to keep the formula warm. I use glass bowls that can be washed in very hot water with bleach or disinfectant.
Cotton swabs such as Q-tips are used to help clean the chick's face and beak after feeding. Make sure you get the type with a nice compact tip. If they are too large you will not be able to fit them into the chick's mouth.
Before handling the chick make sure you have everything you need ready. Try to anticipate everything you may need so that the chick will not be out of the brooder for very long. I have the heat lamp over the work area turned on and warming things up. Wash your hands well with an antibacterial soap and very warm water. Dry your hands but try to keep them warm.
Prepare the formula for feeding. The first 2 feedings, as I have mentioned, should be pedialyte with the probiotic additive. This helps establish the "good bacteria" needed for proper digestion and absorption in the chicks digestive tract. Chicks are born with a "sterile gut" and would normally get this "good bacteria" from the regurgitated food the parents feed them. I use a hot water bath to bring the small amount of solution to the proper temperature. Use the shallow bowl and hot water to make the bath. The formula should be put is a small glass container. I use baby food jars that have been sterilized. Place the thermometer in the formula and monitor the temperature. Getting a small amount of formula ready can be tricky. The smaller the amount the quicker it will change temperature. The bowl of water will help stabilize the temperature. When the formula is at 103 degrees F. it is ready.
While the formula is being brought to the correct temperature is a good time to quickly weigh the chick. Place a clean paper towel on the scale. I use a small cup to hold the chick.
Make sure you zero the scale before weighing the chick. Place the chick on the scale and get a quick, accurate reading. Place the chick back into the brooder to prevent chilling. Check the formula temperature and if it is correct you are ready to feed the chick. Using the tuberculin syringe, draw up 3-4 tenths of a cc. This is a very small amount but it is easier to control. Keep the syringe resting in the formula container. Remove the chick from the brooder and place the holding container on the work area. Make sure the chick is alert and awake. Using the syringe tip touch the chicks beak on it's left side (the chicks left, not your left). This should stimulate a feeding response. A healthy chick will begin to beg for food. Place the tip if the syringe into the chicks mouth while supporting the chick with your opposite hand. Give only a couple of drops at first until the chick catches on. This is very important! Tiny chicks can aspirate very easily. At this age aspiration is fatal. Watch the chicks chest to see the crop begin to expand. At this age you can clearly see the fluid enter the crop. DO NOT OVER FEED! Day one chicks have very tiny crops , do not try to feed until the crop is bulging. The chick's crop will slowly stretch to accommodate larger feedings as time progresses. Use the cotton swabs dipped in warm sterile water to clean the chick's face and beak. Do not allow formula to build up around the corners of the beak as this can cause bacterial infections and may also result in beak deformities. Monitor the chick while cleaning to make sure it remains in an upright position. I have had chicks get so excited at feedings that they vibrate and shake all over. Some chicks get so worked up that they flip themselves over. This can result in aspiration and death. Once cleaned, return the chick to the brooder. If you have difficulties do not keep the chick exposed for more than several minutes. Return the chick to the brooder and begin again. After the first few attempts both you and the chick will get adjusted.
The chick(s) will need to be fed every 1 1/2 to 2 hours for the first couple of days. This can be very stressful on the breeder but it is necessary for success. After the first couple of days you can wait 4 hours in the middle of the night. Slowly increase the amount of formula given at each feeding. Do not allow formula to back up into the neck/throat area. If it does you will need to reduce the amount you are feeding. You should be getting close to 1cc. at each feeding by the end of the second day. Remember to weigh the chick prior to each feeding and document it on your record. Monitor the weight to make sure the chick is gaining and not losing weight.
After the initial 2 feedings add a small amount of handfeeding formula to the pedialyte. The result should look like murky water. You should be able to add more formula until the solution is a thin gruel over the next day or two.. Thicken the formula as the chick grows. Most manufacturers have a guide on the package. One way to check to see if the formula is the right consistency is to check the chick's droppings. If the formula is too thick the dropping while be very hard with little urine. If the formula is too thin the droppings will be almost all liquid with no stool. Proper consistency will help the chick to grown and put on weight.
CONCLUSION
Handfeeding from day one can be an exhausting experience. It can also be one of the most rewarding experiences in life. The system I have developed can help make the task a bit easier. Remember to keep the chick warm and to keep everything clean and disinfected. Most important of all, be prepared!
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